Food & Drink Archives - The Wick https://thisisthewick.com/category/food/ A new media title dedicated to the creative spirit of Hackney Wick and surrounding neighbourhoods Tue, 18 Mar 2025 21:42:18 +0000 en-GB hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.7.2 https://thisisthewick.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/cropped-The-Wick-stacked-32x32.jpg Food & Drink Archives - The Wick https://thisisthewick.com/category/food/ 32 32 Review: Figo Stratford https://thisisthewick.com/food/review-figo-stratford/ Tue, 18 Mar 2025 21:39:38 +0000 https://thisisthewick.com/?p=2285 More than just another pizza and pasta parlour, we found ourselves falling for Figo

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Review: Figo Stratford

I have to admit to regularly having walked straight past Figo in Stratford Cross without giving it much thought.

I’d vaguely pinned it to my mental food map as a sturdy kind of pizza/pasta option, but that was about it. So it was genuinely rather exciting to finally head inside and discover that it actually delivers a whole lot more than the average Italian mainstay in terms atmosphere, delivery – and the quality coming from both the kitchen and the bar.

Destined for our first visit to Sadler’s Wells East, I was keen to road test the local-meal-and-a-show format that’s instantly ‘a thing’ round here, with the opening of East Bank’s fantastic new cultural venue.

Clearly I’ve not been paying enough attention though, as the ABBA crowd have obviously been exercising their own version of said ‘thing’ on this patch for a number of years already. With a Chiquitita-heavy soundtrack and a number of diners sporting very glittering outfits, it didn’t take long to realise this is already a prime pre-show dining destination, despite the decent ongoing walk to get to Voyage arena. No disrespect to the Dancing Queens, but the cool factor inside Figo improved when they headed off in good time.

The space has a bustling, almost New York style energy to it, which was infectious. As the expertly-made Negroni began to course through our post-work veins, our table – beneath the fairy light woven branches of a huge olive tree – increasingly began to fill with the promise of a great night.

Starters of a melting soft grilled octopus tentacle with burrata cream, and well-proportioned crunch to goo ration of truffle and taleggio endowed arancini lifted things up a notch further.

Our server, Simone, picked up on – and ran with – our building enthusiasm, engaging us with just enough of the requisite flourish about the dishes, his homeland, working in London, and passion for all three.

I often avoid bowls of pasta out and about, but something said it would be a good choice here, and the twisted caserecce with Sicilian fennel sausage and porcini mushrooms backed up that decision.

Best of all though was a deeply rich nest of tagliatelle slathered in an unashamedly bold truffle, stracciatella and cured egg yolk sauce. Well worth returning for.

Decent gelato to share was all we could face after that, and the clock was ticking, yet within the space of three mins we were in our seats at the Sadler’s Wells East auditorium, nourished, amused, perfectly primed for the rest of the evening.

The menu at Figo is on the pricier side, but the whole experience was great; an ideal destination before a night of contemporary dance, or indeed Dancing Queen.

Figo, 17 Endeavour Square, Stratford Cross, E20 1JN

More info, menu and reservations 

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Review: Soul Mama, Stratford’s new live music venue & restaurant https://thisisthewick.com/food/review-soul-mama-stratfords-new-live-music-venue-restaurant/ Tue, 05 Nov 2024 15:53:51 +0000 https://thisisthewick.com/?p=2230 Pianist Ben Waters and his talented band play as we sink the Tingalings

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Review: Soul Mama, Stratford’s new live music venue & restaurant

The arrival of Soul Mama, on the ground floor of Stratford’s imposing Gantry Hotel, is all kinds of exciting. It’s London’s newest live music venue, debuting at a time when the nation’s grassroots network of basement dives and iconic backroom stages suffers unprecedented rates of closures in the face of multiple economic challenges.

Thoroughly bucking the trend, Soul Mama’s founders – the indefatigable musician, broadcaster, author and OBE YolanDa Brown, and her equally creative hubby Adetokunbo ‘T’ Oyelola – entered the Guinness Book of Records for smashing their Kickstarter and securing record-breaking funds to help turn this particular dream into reality.

On equal billing to the already impressive regular line-up of live jazz, gospel and soul performers, the restaurant is an upfront fusion of foods and flavours hailing from across the Caribbean, South America and Africa. Tables are arranged up close to the stage, meaning diners truly feel like they are enjoying an intimate audience with the world class artists the well-connected music entrepreneurs in charge can pull in, right from the off.

On our weeknight visit, globetrotting boogie pianist Ben Waters is the main attraction,  although his son Tom, on sax, takes a fairly decent and good natured stab at upstaging him. The band take to the stage just as our house signature Tingaling cocktails, zippy with rum ‘n juice, start to take hold. As Waters charges up and down seemingly boundless octaves of the piano, a sizable platter of plump, 24-hour marinated jerk chicken wings gets things underway in the food department. They’re drenched in a rich and fruity glaze that sets out the menu’s unswervable intent on delivering bold flavours at every turn. Our accompanying mushroom arepa, with a Trini-influenced doubles twist, takes on the role of a refreshing alternative bite, with its salsa bringing some citrus lightness.

Later, as the band get deeper into rock ‘n’ roll classics and tales from the road, received with rapture by the superfans who’ve got tables at the front, a main of one pot braised lamb neck with butter beans is also deeply, darkly flavoursome, while the coconut curry chicken brings a simpler, creamier kind of richness.

The room is a slightly challenging space in which to emersed yourself fully in live music, with the hotel in evidence all around, (including the need to head into reception to use the loos), but as Ben and the band rightly say more than once, it’s fantastic to have such a venue land here in Stratford. These are early days, as evidenced by occasional inconsistencies and staff confusions, but those are sure to iron out as the full music programme – and non-gig dining-only nights – have all now begun. What Soul Mama does effortless well already is deliver something totally different, and culturally dynamic, right into the heart of this still rather shiny and new part of East London.

Check out @theisthewick on Insta for our video of father and son Ben and Tom Waters freestyling on the piano together during our recent visit!

Soul Mama, 40 Celebration Ave (Gantry Hotel), E20 1DB

Tickets, table bookings and more info.

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Upcycle, recycle, full circle https://thisisthewick.com/environment/elementor-1628/ Sun, 03 Oct 2021 12:38:24 +0000 https://thisisthewick.com/?p=1628 For some years, scaffolding boards and other ‘waste’ materials from the Olympic Park were used for mezzanine-building, warehouse modifications and much more in Hackney Wick. Almost a decade ago, Tom Fletcher created his Rejuce factory in a Fish Island warehouse, collecting discarded fruit from a wholesale market. Another warehouse-dweller I knew fantasised about closed-circuit hydroponic […]

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Upcycle, recycle, full circle

For some years, scaffolding boards and other ‘waste’ materials from the Olympic Park were used for mezzanine-building, warehouse modifications and much more in Hackney Wick. Almost a decade ago, Tom Fletcher created his Rejuce factory in a Fish Island warehouse, collecting discarded fruit from a wholesale market. Another warehouse-dweller I knew fantasised about closed-circuit hydroponic farms before heading to Kenya to build cooking stoves fuelled by their owners’ toilet waste. The Wick was not only a playground but a testing ground too.

This year, flooding has alarmed Londoners while the world has looked with dismay at the latest report by the UN International Panel on Climate Change. For years I’ve showcased the social enterprise and sustainability ecosystem in Dalston, but Hackney Wick has grown its own cluster of businesses seeking to do things better. On the railway embankment, passing container trains invite us to ponder the scale of the resources we’re using and the problem we face.

Underneath those same tracks at Grow, Extinction Rebellion met to make plans. But this arts hub is also trying to inspire the business response. Between freight trains, Pete Bennett explains: “Grow was founded in 2014 as part of an ecosystem of studios and is an experiment in ethical and sustainable business. That ethos informs our decision making, from using local and independent products wherever possible, to being powered by Ecotricity and paying all our staff the London Living Wage.” But it’s not just about the things sourced on site, like the chairs made from waste tyres and Kompassion Kombucha; free or low-cost cultural events remind us that community needs to be sustainable too.

Another Wick veteran is Neil McDonald of Stour Space, the Community Development Trust and now Hackney Wick Underground amongst other projects. His latest baby is a civic learning environment with studios, maker space, arts and food. There is also a classroom to kickstart ethical business for young people. Exploring ideas like land trusts as a practical way to mitigate the most voracious forms of redevelopment, he’s mastering in Design for Cultural Commons. The Underground runs not on consensus, he says, but by consent: “It’s about participation and redistribution of profits for regenerative business practice, a systemic shift in governance that builds inclusivity and empowerment into its core mission and activities.”

Trust is important and customers need to do their research. One entrepreneur told me that they see greenwashing all the time. But even well-meaning businesses might unknowingly have their carefully collected recycling end up in landfill, or their compostable plates incinerated. Joined-up thinking from businesses and councils is required, along with due diligence from customers.

Several markets now vie for the ethical pound, including one attached to Silo restaurant in the White Building. Chef and writer Douglas McMaster shared his motivation for this joint project with Crate: “I walk down the canal here and we’re suffocated by waste. 40% of food is wasted too – an obscene amount of resources. It’s catastrophic for nature so we’re trying to mitigate that. We’re a restaurant but you can apply these ideas to anything.”

There is no danger of lip service here: “It’s a system with no loose ends and we’ve really gone into detail. Produce arrives in reusable vessels and it’s from regenerative suppliers. They’re not just sustaining, they’re actively putting back what’s been lost and I’ve been to every single one. Afterwards, food waste and natural materials are composted. Glass is the exception – so now we’re looking at how to make the tools we need from it.”

Nearby, Claire Nicolas of Pedal & Co plans to upcycle old hi-vis clothing for a range of conspicuous but stylish cyclewear manufactured in Hackney. The recent successful bid for the GLA’s High Streets For All Challenge by the (Hackney Wick and Fish Island) Community Development Trust recognises this increasing entrepreneurship. Some are already planning for the post-AI landscape, anticipating the next shift.

Forward-thinkers Echo (Economy of Hours) have taken money out of the equation, pulling in a socially-minded crowd with their timebanking and skillsharing network. Director Sarah Henderson is also part of Global Challenge Local Solutions, a triad of young women in business who ran a meeting at Grow this year addressing issues like plastics, waste, Net-Zero and inclusivity. The meeting was public, as their website points out: “You cannot tackle a systemic problem in isolation.”

Once you’ve seen a ship carrying 20,000 containers, the abstract nature of the resources we’re burning through becomes more concrete. Reducing unnecessary purchases, The Library of Things at the Old Baths is a place to rent tools and other things we don’t need very often. Buying and binning is old hat now, as The Wick’s guest editor, Helen Lax of London Fashion District, explains: “With the Fashion District Festival, we aim to engage the community and customer to think about fashion in ways that will support sustainability and promote climate action: thinking about where their clothes are made, by who, and how; buying locally made and independent; caring for what’s already in their wardrobe, re-inventing it, or passing it on. We need to create a conscious and responsible fashion industry.

Covid has accelerated the move away from commuting and staying local. Projects like the Hackney Wick Circular High Street (see p.14) will be an area where everyone knows what’s available: making better use of existing underused spaces, testing and trialling new approaches to circular economy and inclusivity.

Meanwhile, outside Hackney Bridge in a container you can find bike-recycler, low-impact living and gift economy advocate Lawrence Mohammed of Pro Bike Service. Neighbours Zhero are pedal power advocates too, helping artists, designers and galleries to move things by cargo bike. They may be unique, as co- founder and local lad Joe Sharpe says: “We’re the first zero-emission art-handling and installation service in London – possibly beyond!”

Avoiding packaging is becoming much easier, with Refill Therapy, just opened on Wallis Rd, ready to fill your existing containers with food, household cleaning and personal care items, and Hepscott Rd’s Burnt Umber Brasserie offering an innovative natural wine bottle fill service. The crowdfunded Tuck Shop on Fish Island encourages conscious consumption with container refills and a range of ethically sourced meat. Also on the refill tip, former milk float the Topup Truck is a regular sight parked up by the Pearl. As founder Ella Shone says: “Plastic was invented right here; now it’s come full circle.” For better and for worse, cheap plastic changed the world. Can the latest wave of East London changemakers do it again?

Simon Cole explores issues including sustainability and social enterprise on walks and blogs: hackneytours.com

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Fit out to public house https://thisisthewick.com/environment/fit-out-to-public-house/ Sat, 17 Jul 2021 15:37:19 +0000 https://thisisthewick.com/?p=571 It’s said that the celebrated photographer David Bailey’s grandmother collected glasses there and was paid in gin. Certainly printers, mechanics, scrap metal merchants and more all bowled into it before its closure in the mid-90s. Then all-night ravers and partyheads found more discrete ways in until the door was breeze-blocked a few years back. An […]

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Fit out to public house

It’s said that the celebrated photographer David Bailey’s grandmother collected glasses there and was paid in gin. Certainly printers, mechanics, scrap metal merchants and more all bowled into it before its closure in the mid-90s. Then all-night ravers and partyheads found more discrete ways in until the door was breeze-blocked a few years back. An organiser from that era, Kristian Dabiere, said: “Words can never do it justice. It was like the Wild West, an oasis of lawlessness in a derelict London backwater. Everyone who went there will have a story of some kind.”

When it comes to writing about the history and reopening of the Lord Napier pub, there’s no shortage of good material. The defunct boozer’s iconic street art status is well documented and people in the street all have their opinions. Search online and in the ranking you will find its distinctive current frontage hot on the heels of the Scottish noble who gave his name to it. Numerous magazines have covered it, with Huck referring to it as a palimpsest for the area.

A friend experienced his first ever rave there; the bits he can remember, he’ll never forget. In the middle of a welcome-to-the-Wick spiel on one of my own guided walking tours, I watched as blinking figures wobbled out into the morning sun, warm tins of lager in hand. The pub’s cultural, historical and even psycho-geographical symbolism is under no doubt. But as ever here, change is coming. There is a sense of excitement and optimism about the idea of having an actual pub amongst people I canvased, but two questions dominate the discourse: “Is it going to be ‘gastro’?” and “Will the street art be staying?”

Rob Star is the man behind Star Pubs. Originally from Leicester he’s been in the East London nightlife scene for 20 years. The reopening has been a long time coming. He’s been talking about this project with building landlord and local printer Stewart Schwartz for six years.

“He’s had lots of other offers but we’ve done our deal pretty much on a handshake and credit to him he hasn’t given it to a pub company that would have given him more money.”

Star smiles wryly as I ask the questions he’s so familiar with now: “The inside was all gone so it won’t be a recreation, but by no means will it be a gastropub. It’ll have comfy chairs, decent food and good beer. We’re going to spend a bit of money but we want a modern day traditional boozer with a central bar, welcoming to everyone in the area.” In his other pubs a burger or a Thai curry are typical fare and most takings are ‘wet’ sales. It’s hard to strike the right balance between multiple demographics, he says, but he hopes the pub will do that.

Star’s relationship with the Napier goes back to the noughties when he began warehouse parties in Brick Lane, then ran nights on what is now redeveloped as the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park. He had it written into the Napier’s planning application that the exterior will still be a street art canvas: “I’ve got a guy who is part of the team that did the current design and he’s going to organise with other people here to give it a re-rub.” He speculates that it might well receive some unofficial updates too.

Edwin’s huge “Shithouse to Penthouse” slogan was part of a 2016 protest work against gentrification curated by local artist Aida Wilde. It may go, Star says coyly, but equally it may morph into something new. Wilde confirmed she would prefer that the existing gesture of resistance is not part of the new iteration.

Above that now-infamous graffiti, ZCD Architects have created two roof terraces while at street level the exterior glazed bricks were already peeking through hoardings in May. Stewart Schwartz bought the pub in 2004 when he had the idea that Hackney Wick would become a “printer’s paradise”. The man behind Schwartz Wharf and other properties says he bought into Hackney Wick when nobody else was interested because he believes in the area. He makes a point of never selling and is known for his informal agreements: “I’m inundated by offers from breweries who want to buy it, but I shook hands with Rob and my word is my bond.” He remembers the Lea Tavern (pictured below) that once stood on Whitepost Lane and the original Lord Napier too: “It was pretty basic, more like someone’s front room really.”

Schwartz is unequivocal that Hackney Wick is better now than it was, and many older East Londoners echo the sentiment that this was not a place to come and visit. Factory lives were hard, tin baths and outside loos were in use in the 1960s if not later. But others will recall a friendly pub in a tough but churchgoing area, even if it was segregated along gender lines; workers unwound and marriages were made. Sometimes the strains of Danny Boy would echo through the bar as those pipes called the Irish contingent. It’s always worth remembering that the Wick has been through multiple iterations, and estate clearances meant population changes.

Whatever happens, the new Lord Napier will be watched, evaluated and commented on. It’s another high-profile marker of change, like the opening of Sainsbury’s (see p10). But a common refrain – about the revamped boozer that was close to becoming more flats – is that it’ll be nice to have a proper pub.

Star hopes that soon we can once again sit down at a table that’s not ours and chat to a stranger we just met. Hopefully by July, on a corner where Hackney and Tower Hamlets rub shoulders, we’ll be able to do that once more – friends old and new, down the pub.

Local Business Fair returns

It’s the place to find out how you can get involved in the big summer festival activity in Victoria Park

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